Skincare Ingredient Glossary
The Cosmecell Skincare Ingredient Glossary explains the actives you see on Indian skincare labels in plain language: what each ingredient is, what it does for the look of your skin, who it suits, and which Cosmecell formulas contain it. Bookmark it, and use it whenever a label is full of chemistry.
Quick guide: which ingredient for which concern?
| Concern | Ingredients to look for | Cosmecell pick |
|---|---|---|
| Dark spots and acne marks | Azelaic acid, HPPA, alpha arbutin, vitamin C | Radiant Skin Serum |
| Dullness and tan | Vitamin C, glutathione, glycolic acid | Vitamin C Serum 12%, Glutathione Face Wash |
| Oily, blemish-prone skin | Salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc PCA | 2% Salicylic Acid Serum, AHA BHA Face Wash |
| Sensitive skin | Lactobionic acid, mandelic acid, ethyl ascorbic acid | Gentle Glycolic Cleanser, VC-Peptide Complex |
| Sun protection | Zinc oxide, avobenzone, SPF 50, PA++++ | SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen |
Ingredients A to Z
Azelaic acid
A gentle acid found naturally in grains such as wheat and barley. In skincare it helps reduce the look of dark spots, acne marks and redness, and helps pores look clearer. Suits most skin types, including oily and blemish-prone skin; a mild tingle in the first weeks is common.
In Cosmecell: Radiant Skin Serum (Azelaic Acid + HPPA)
HPPA (hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid)
A brightening ingredient used to help dark spots and uneven tone look more even. Often paired with azelaic acid.
In Cosmecell: Radiant Skin Serum (1% HPPA)
Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
A water-soluble vitamin that helps reduce the look of shine, visible pores and dullness, and supports the skin barrier. Very easy to tolerate, so it is a good first active.
In Cosmecell: AHA BHA Face Wash (3%), 2% Salicylic Acid Serum (1%)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
The pure form of vitamin C. A strong morning brightener that helps dull, tired-looking skin look radiant and helps tan and dark spots look less noticeable. Sensitive to air, light and heat, so store it cool and closed.
In Cosmecell: Vitamin C Serum 12%
Ethyl ascorbic acid
A stable vitamin C derivative. Gentler than pure ascorbic acid and holds up better in heat, which makes it a good choice for sensitive skin, beginners and Indian summers.
In Cosmecell: VC-Peptide Complex
Alpha arbutin
A stable brightening ingredient that helps dark spots and sun spots look lighter and less noticeable. Works well alongside vitamin C.
In Cosmecell: Vitamin C Serum 12% (2%), Glutathione Face Wash (1%)
Kojic acid
A brightening ingredient derived from fungi used in rice wine fermentation. Helps dark spots look lighter. Can irritate sensitive skin at higher strengths.
Glutathione
An antioxidant used in skincare to help skin look brighter and more even. In a face wash, it is part of a brightening cleanse.
In Cosmecell: Glutathione Brightening Face Wash (1%)
Tranexamic acid
A brightening ingredient often used for the look of stubborn dark patches and uneven tone. Usually well tolerated.
Salicylic acid (BHA)
An oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that works inside pores. Helps unclog pores, manage excess oil and reduce the look of blackheads and blemishes. Ideal for oily skin in humid weather.
In Cosmecell: 2% Salicylic Acid Serum, AHA BHA Face Wash (2%)
Glycolic acid (AHA)
The smallest alpha hydroxy acid. Loosens dead surface cells for smoother, brighter-looking skin. Use 2 to 3 times a week if new to acids, and always wear SPF.
In Cosmecell: Gentle Glycolic Cleanser (5%), Glutathione Face Wash (3%), AHA BHA Face Wash (3%)
Mandelic acid
A larger AHA that works more slowly and gently than glycolic acid, which makes it popular for sensitive and Indian skin tones.
In Cosmecell: AHA BHA Face Wash (1%), Glutathione Face Wash (1%)
Lactobionic acid (PHA)
A polyhydroxy acid: a very gentle exfoliant that also helps skin hold water. Good for sensitive skin.
In Cosmecell: Gentle Glycolic Cleanser (2%)
Hyaluronic acid
A humectant that draws water into the skin's surface for a plumper, hydrated look. Suits every skin type.
In Cosmecell: Radiant Skin Serum, SPF 50 Sunscreen
Polyglutamic acid
A humectant that forms a light, moisture-holding film on skin. Often paired with vitamin C to keep skin comfortable.
In Cosmecell: Vitamin C Serum 12% (1%), VC-Peptide Complex
Zinc PCA
A zinc salt that helps skin look less oily. Common in serums for oily, blemish-prone skin.
In Cosmecell: 2% Salicylic Acid Serum (1%)
Peptides
Short chains of amino acids used in skincare to help skin look smoother and firmer. Gentle and easy to layer.
In Cosmecell: VC-Peptide Complex
GHK-Cu (copper peptide)
A peptide bound to copper, used in skincare for a smoother, healthier-looking complexion. In sunscreen it is a skin-conditioning extra, not a UV filter.
In Cosmecell: SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide)
A K-beauty biotech ingredient, often called "salmon DNA", used for a healthier-looking, more resilient-looking complexion and scalp.
In Cosmecell: PDRN Jawline Contour Serum, PDRN Hair Gel
Ceramides
Lipids that make up much of the skin barrier. Moisturisers with ceramides help dry, winter-stressed skin feel comfortable.
Retinol
A form of vitamin A used at night for smoother-looking texture and the look of fine lines. Start slowly, use at night only and wear SPF daily.
Zinc oxide
A mineral UV filter that protects against both UVA and UVB rays.
In Cosmecell: SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen
Avobenzone
A chemical UV filter known for UVA protection. Often combined with other filters in hybrid sunscreens.
In Cosmecell: SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen
SPF
Sun Protection Factor: a measure of protection against UVB rays, which cause burning and tanning. SPF 50 is a good daily choice for Indian sun.
In Cosmecell: SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen
PA rating
A rating for UVA protection, shown as PA+ to PA++++. UVA contributes to dark spots and early signs of ageing. Choose PA+++ or PA++++.
In Cosmecell: SPF 50 PA++++ Sunscreen
Non-comedogenic
Formulated so it is less likely to clog pores. Useful for oily, blemish-prone skin.
In Cosmecell: AHA BHA Face Wash
Patch test
Applying a small amount of a new product to the side of the neck or inner arm for a few days before using it on your face, to check how your skin reacts.
Ingredient FAQs
Which ingredient is best for dark spots on Indian skin?
Azelaic acid is the most versatile for acne marks and uneven-looking tone, alpha arbutin helps dark spots look lighter, and vitamin C brightens dullness and tan. Daily SPF 50 is essential with all of them.
Which ingredients suit oily skin in humid weather?
Salicylic acid, niacinamide and zinc PCA, in light, water-based textures, plus a non-greasy SPF 50.
Which ingredients are gentle enough for sensitive skin?
Azelaic acid (started slowly), niacinamide, ethyl ascorbic acid, lactobionic acid, mandelic acid, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are usually well tolerated. Patch test first.
Can I use acids and vitamin C together?
Use vitamin C in the morning under sunscreen and exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid at night.
What does PA++++ mean on sunscreen?
It is the highest UVA protection rating. UVA rays contribute to dark spots and early signs of ageing, so PA+++ or PA++++ is recommended for daily Indian sun.
Related guides
- Best serum for pigmentation on Indian skin
- Azelaic acid vs niacinamide
- How to choose a vitamin C serum
- Sunscreen for oily skin in India
- Winter skincare routine for India
- BHA vs AHA
- What copper peptides do
- PDRN skincare explained
Cosmetic skincare information only, not medical advice. Patch test new products and see a dermatologist for persistent skin concerns. Updated 18 October 2026.